The Healthy Cockatiel By Malinda Pope
 According to Avian Medicine: Principles and Applications (1), there are four factors that contribute to a bird's health- Health Care, Nutritional Status, Management Practices, and Genetic Background. Nothing, other than selecting healthy stock, can be done to change the genetic background of a bird since that aspect is determined when the egg is initially fertilized. However, as cockatiel owners, we can do plenty to ensure the long-term health of our birds.
Health Care and Management Practices: It is our responsibility, as keepers of cockatiels, to educate ourselves as to their physical and psychological needs. This is not only true of the pet owner, but also the breeder. In fact, breeders of cockatiels have an increased responsibility since they have taken on the care of stock that will (with planning and a little luck) be producing strong, healthy chicks for the future. These same breeders must educate themselves so that they will be able to educate any future owners of their birds or their offspring.
Cockatiels have been known to live for over 30 years*. However, according to Avian Medicine (2), the average life expectancy of a companion cockatiel is only 5 years ! Certainly, this should not be so. Perhaps if we took a look at our overall health care practices, concerning our birds, we might be able to improve on this figure.
Begin your health care plan with the purchase of healthy stock obtained from a reputable source. Just because you see a cockatiel advertised for a "bargain price" does not mean that you are getting a good deal. It cost no more to take care of a healthy bird obtained from a respected breeder than it does that $20 bird bought from an unknown source.
When choosing your birds, be sure to look for a bird that is alert and responsive to his environment, has clear eyes and a clean vent area. Avoid "fluffed" birds that do not appear "normal", are not eating well, have soiled vents, or have abnormal droppings.
If you have birds at home, and are adding to your flock, be sure to quarantine any new additions for six to eight weeks. This period of isolation will allow time for any potential diseases to show up while preventing infection in your established birds. It is also a good idea to have any new cockatiels checked over by your avian veterinarian during the quarantine period.
Cockatiels should be housed in cages that provide enough room for the cockatiel to stretch his wings. Bars are best if they run horizontally so they provide a "ladder-like" climbing surface for your bird. If housing more than one bird per enclosure, be sure to take that into consideration and provide extra space. Although cockatiels enjoy sitting side-by-side, they do not enjoy being crowded together on a perch.
Cages should not be placed in direct sunlight, but cockatiels do benefit from natural sunlight coming into a room. If using artificial light, purchase full-spectrum bulbs. Natural light or full-spectrum artificial light are necessary for vitamin D to be utilized by the cockatiel. Fresh air is also a necessity for good health-avoid placing birds near areas that might contain fumes...this includes areas of heavy tobacco smoke. Air conditioners and ventilation systems should be cleaned regularly. Perches of different sizes will also be welcomed. If using natural branches, be sure that they have not been previously sprayed with any pesticides or harmful chemicals.
Cleanliness of your bird's cage or aviary is a must ! If possible, a cage with a "drop-through" wire bottom will ensure that droppings do not accumulate where your bird can reach them. If your bird's enclosure is a solid bottom, care must be taken to change the bottom paper often. Food and water containers must also be kept clean. Many birds will learn to use small-pet water bottles. These are especially good because the keep food and excrement out of the water. Always provide fresh food and water . Leaving moist foods for extended times will result in spoiled foods that can provide excellent habitats for disease-causing organisms.
The authors of Avian Medicine state that all disinfectants are toxic and should be used conservatively (read the labels!). When using disinfectants, be sure to first clean cages, bowls, etc. Of all debris. Chlorine bleach should be used only in well ventilated areas, and a 5% solution is effective for most uses. Some commonly used disinfectants are as follows (3);
- 1. Clorox bleach- kills most bacteria but is ineffective if organic debris is present. Clorox does not work against mycobacterium.
- 2. Roccal- kills most bacteria and is recommended for chlamydia disinfection, but ineffective if organic debris is present.
- 3. Nolvasan- does not work against Pseudomas bacteria or mycobacterium.
- 4. Phenol (One-Stroke)- kills most bacteria and is effective against candida.
Good management of cockatiels should also include care of the wings and feet. By this, I mean wing clipping and nail clipping. Most cockatiels are very muscular in their shoulders and have the capacity for strong flight. Because of this, any cockatiel kept as a pet should have their wings clipped. Rarely does this render the bird completely flightless, but it will prevent strong flight in an upward pattern. Cockatiels can be "spooked" for no apparent reason and, if unclipped, will be long gone before they realize that the are far from home. It is impossible for you to retrieve a lost bird once this happens. Also, once a cockatiel is clipped, it is not permanent. Be aware of new growth among the flight feathers and trim accordingly.
Nails should be clipped regularly. For cockatiels, human nail clippers are sufficient. Trim only a small amount of the nail at a time so that you do not accidentally cut directly into a blood vessel. If bleeding does occur, use a "quick stop" pencil or, in an emergency, some flour from the kitchen. (The "quick stop" works best !)
NUTRITION: Nutrition affects bird health in both negative and positive ways; by causing disease because of deficiencies, toxocotoes, or imbalances or by improving a bird's resistance against disease (4). Specific nutrient requirements of cockatiels may vary according to their physiological state (reproductive activities, growth, maintenance), environment, and health status.
Studies on the nutritional requirements of cockatiels are still hard to locate since cockatiels/exotic bird nutrition is a relatively new field. Many of the beliefs we have come from methods used by breeders that have produced long-lived birds that produce health offspring. New developments will surely result as interest in this field continues.
According to Dr. Jeanne Smith (5), growing cockatiels require a diet that is 20% protein. However, adults can be maintained on diets as low as 4% protein. In general, vitamin and mineral requirements are higher for growing birds than adults at maintenance. Protein is also an important part of the avian diet since a protein deficiency in a breeding hen will often result in decreased egg production.
It is well know that a deficiency in calcium will cause thin-shelled or soft-shelled eggs. But, did you know that it will also cause a weakening in the bones of laying hens as calcium needs are met by drawing it from the bones. Deficiencies in vitamins may cause reduced hatchability of fertile eggs. Deficiencies in riboflavin, biotin, folic acid and vitamin B12 may produce chicks with insufficient strength to complete the hatching process. If a hen shows signs of decreased egg production or there is increased embryo mortality (dead-in-shell) in your nestboxes near the end of breeding season, you might want to review your feeding program and check for signs of missing dietary requirements.
All this does not mean to "overdose" on any of the required nutrients. "More" is not necessarily "Better", especially when providing extra supplements (vitamins, minerals, etc.). Many of the requirements (including calcium and Vitamin D) can be toxic if given in excess. Always read vitamin labels for the proper dosage.
Basically, try to ensure a balanced diet by providing a variety of foods for your cockatiel. Seeds are fine since, in the wild, these birds exist on a diet of primarily seeds. However, seed diet must be supplemented with fresh foods. Pelleted diets are also being formulated with nutrition in mind. Greens (spinach, parsley, kale, and dandelion) are good sources of Vitamin A and Vitamin K. Sunflower and safflower seeds provide Vitamin E, Thiamin, Pyridoxine (B6), Niacin, Biotin, and Choline. Brewer's yeast , as a supplement, provides Thiamin, Riboflavin, B6, Phosphorous, Magnesium, Potassium, Copper, and Selenium, as well as needed Amino Acids. This is by no means a complete list, but just serves to show the extent of involvement in just a few of the supplements. Remember, until a definitive answer to the question of nutritional needs has been derived, based on extensive nutritional studies conducted on captive birds, it is best to offer a variety of foods and consult an avian veterinarian when in doubt.
- (1) Ritchie, BW;Harrison, GJ; Harrison, LR. Avian Medicine: Principles and Applications. Wings Publishing, Inc., Lake Worth, FL., 1994
- (2) Ritchie, et al. Table 1.4, p30.
- (3) Ritchie, et al. P 59.
- (4) Smith, Jeanne. Exotic Bird Report, Summer 1992.
- (5) Ibid.
| | Cage Bird Lighting by Robert Black All the birds and other surface dwelling creatures of our planet developed under the balance of light wavelengths emitted continuously by our sun. As these light waves strike the earth's atmosphere, the length of the light waves is modified. Some of the harmful rays are filtered out by the atmosphere. The greater depth or area of the atmosphere that the rays go through, the more they are changed towards the red and infrared end of the visible spectrum. This is why the setting sun is so orange in color; its light must pass through hundreds of miles of atmosphere before it reaches our eyes. The light from the sun when it is directly overhead passes through only a few miles of atmosphere, allowing the greatest amount of unmodified light to reach the surface. When this normal balance of light in which birds evolved is altered, as by indoor artificial lighting, there are short-and long-term effects on the birds' lives, health, and reproduction. Some few of these more noticeable effects are now known, but most are still completely unknown. It can now be physically proven, for example, that unbalanced light that strikes the human eye will result in vastly reduced muscle power and physical ability. This unbalanced light will also affect the muscle strength of birds, and this is one reason why birds indoors under artificial light tire more easily and are easier to catch than those maintained in outdoor aviaries. There are a wide variety of artificial light bulbs and fluorescent tubes now available, and most of these produce a balance of light wavelengths that is far different from that of natural sunlight. Some give off lightwaves that are heavily into the red and infrared end of the spectrum, such as the standard incandescent light bulb, while others are overly rich in the green, blue, or yellow wavelengths. The ultraviolet 'black light' tubes used in discos radiate predominantly beyond the visible violet in the invisible ultraviolet range, at the opposite end of the visible spectrum from the infrared area. The old standard incandescent light bulbs, as already mentioned, produce light that is heavily in the red and invisible infrared wavelengths. Through we cannot see infrared radiation, we can feel it as heat. An incandescent bulb radiates a lot of infrared or heat radiation. In a small, enclosed room, one light bulb will rapidly raise the temperature of the room through its large output of heat. When used in brooders and other small enclosed places, a small bulb produces enough heat to keep the temperature of a small area very warm for young gallinaceous birds, or baby psittacines that are being hand-fed. A bulb that is too large can put out so much heat that it will dehydrate, burn and kill sensitive baby birds. A small 7-watt bulb can even be used as a temporary incubator when nothing else is available. These incandescent light bulbs do not emit any light in the ultraviolet wavelengths. The commonly used fluorescent lighting tubes are made to emit more blue or other colors of light, depending on their purpose. Unless they are specifically manufactured to do so, they emit little or no light in the red or infrared ranges of the spectrum, and little or no ultraviolet light. Those that are manufactured as 'daylight' fluorescent tubes have a better balance of the light colors of the spectrum. The commercial tubes that go by the brand names Vita-Lite and Kiva have a good balance of the light wavelengths that are nearest to the balance of natural sunlight, but they range from two to ten times the cost of the standard fluorescent tubes. A report published in the November, 1971 monthly issue of the American Cage-Bird Magazine illustrates the importance of full-spectrum lighting in maintaining any birds in captivity. The Bronx Zoo had for four years maintained a group of Tufted Puffins under artificial lights. During this time, there had been no breeding attempts. However, when the Zoo installed full-spectrum lighting, the puffins produced a fertile egg for the first time in captivity. The basis for the observed effects of various wavelengths of light on living things is not yet understood. We do know from solid research that light affects the development of the body's hormone-producing glands. We also know that under the stimulation of light, the pineal gland controls the synthesis and release of hormones and enzymes into the bloodstream. Perhaps most important, light received through the eye will stimulate the pituitary gland. Since the pituitary gland is the master balance gland of the glandular system and of the body, light in this indirect manner will influence all of the glands in the body. Through research has not yet pinpointed many of the physical affects of this glandular light influence, there can be no doubt that these effects are profound and far-reaching. All of the available research now indicates strongly that light is a basic, natural regulator of many body processes and physical activities in both birds and mammals. Research by William Rowan as long ago as 1925 showed that Slate-colored Juncos could be made to migrate northward rather than towards the south in the fall by varying the light-dark cycle they were exposed to before their release. Also, experience with ducks many years ago showed that hooding them to close off light to the eyes definitely prevents the stimulation of the male sex glands. Canary breeders have known for probably hundreds of years that the gradual lengthening days of spring are a primary factor in bringing the canaries into breeding condition. It has also been proven that these red wavelengths of the spectrum are a decisive influence in bringing birds into breeding condition. As a consequence, if you have birds that are failing to come into breeding condition at the appropriate time, you might try installing a red light bulb to increase the concentration of these wavelengths to which your birds are being exposed. Do this in addition to gradually lengthening the daylight hours for the birds. The ultraviolet wavelengths are of particular importance for the health and breeding of cage birds. These ultraviolet wavelengths of light are invisible to our eyes and are classified into two general groups, called the long wavelength ultraviolet and the short wavelength ultraviolet. The natural sunlight striking the earth is rich in long wavelength ultraviolet, which is closer to visible light. It is also called 'near ultraviolet', since it is the nearest to the visible light. This long wavelength ultraviolet alone will cause pigment darkening in the skin without burning. The commercial black lights give off light in the long wavelength range of ultraviolet. Ultraviolet light will not pass through glass, but will pass through most clear plastics, and it will pass through quartz glass. The short wavelength ultraviolet, also called 'far ultraviolet', is farther away from visible light. It can be dangerous, and it is the form of ultraviolet that causes sunburn with overexposure. The germicidal lamps used in hospitals to kill microorganisms emit ultraviolet light in the short wavelengths. And yet, this short wavelength ultraviolet is not all bad, for it is this area of the ultraviolet wavelengths striking the skin that allows the formation of vitamin D3. The exposed skin of the legs, feet, around the eyes, and in other areas in some birds, exudes an oily compound that researchers have given the technical name of 7-dehydrocholesterol. When the ultraviolet rays strike this substance, they produce a chemical change in this compound that transforms it into cholecalciferol, the technical name for vitamin D3. The vitamin is then resorbed into the skin over a period of time and then enters the circulatory system for use in the body's cells to supply the bird's vitamin D requirement. For birds maintained indoors, window glass effectively cuts out any possibility of vitamin D3 synthesis from short wavelength ultraviolet striking the skin, since ultraviolet rays will not pass through glass. VitaminD3 is the only form of vitamin D that birds can use, the only form that is metabolically active in the avian body. This skin synthesis of vitamin D3 is very important for birds, particularly those that eat primarily plant materials, because only foods from the animal kingdom and animal products contain vitaminD3. Recent research has shown that many ultraviolet sources are not able to cause the formation of vitamin D3 on the skin, because of the lack of intensity in the ultraviolet radiation. The presence of ultraviolet light alone is not sufficient: the intensity is also crucial. The sun's ultraviolet radiation, of course, does have the necessary intensity for vitamin D3 synthesis. A sunlamp also emits ultraviolet radiation in the intensity required. However, most other artificial lights do not emit radiation of sufficient intensity for the formation of vitamin D3. The full spectrum lights do not have the required intensity for the formation of vitamin D3. The full spectrum lights do not have the required intensity, and even the ultraviolet fluorescent tubes, called black lights in the lighting industry, do not emit the intensity necessary for vitamin D3 synthesis. Thus,unless the birds maintained indoors have either an hour or so a day under sunlamp radiation, or a vitamin D3 supplement in their diet, or animal products as food to provide this vitamin, they are likely to have a serious vitamin D deficiency, leading to weak bones, thin-shelled eggs, soft-shelled eggs, and other problems with calcium metabolism. Another proven way in which ultraviolet light affects our birds is in the sex of the offspring of our breeding efforts. The long wavelength ultraviolet seems to be the primary factor in this influence. Experiments with fish, chinchillas, and other animals show that the addition of full spectrum lights in place of the standard incandescent or fluorescent bulbs resulted in an enormous increas in the production of female offspring in breeding efforts under artificial light. In transferring this information to the frequent complaints from bird breeders that their Society Finches and Gouldian Finches are producing a vast majority of males in indoor breeding, it was only reasonable to assume that a similar lack of ultraviolet light was the cause of this common avicultural problem also. In my own breeding, I was getting from 75% to 90% males while breeding these finches under artificial lights indoors. After reading about the effects of ultraviolet light in increasing the production of female offspring in animal experiments, I installed one four foot black light tube in my birdroom, placed so that it would shine directly into all of the cages. This one simple change was sufficient to restore a normal 50/50 sex ratio to the offspring of all of the species in my birdroom, beginning with the next clutches laid under the new lighting system. Even the overabundant production of males in the Society Finches and Cutthroat Finches changed with the next nests of eggs laid so that the breeding birds produced an equal amount of males and females among their offspring. Though an excess of males when breeding the canaries, budgerigars, and cockatiels may be highly desirable, since males are always in greater demand as pets and singers, a large excess of males can be a minor disaster in breeding such birds as doves and finches, which are usually maintained in pairs. Should your own birds be producing a large excess of unwanted males, you need to review your lighting conditions carefully. And keep in mind that any glass between the birds and the natural light will filter out all of the ultraviolet wavelengths. The natural light in open outdoor aviaries will provide the necessary ultraviolet wavelengths which have been proven to be so important in determining the sex ratio of the offspring. A simple four-foot fluorescent black light tube in your indoor birdroom will accomplish the same result. Since this initial experimentation with a black light in balancing the sex ration of the offspring was so successful, it was the deciding factor in the decision to produce this Fact Sheet on the subject of lighting. Many copies of earlier editions of this Fact Sheet have gone out to aviculturists, and the feedback received has indicated that this is a solid and safe way of balancing the lighting in an indoor birdroom, which will invariably result in the production of a more balanced sex ratio in the offspring of any avian species. For a thorough coverage of the subject of light in relation to living things, I would recommend that you read the detailed works of John N. Ott. He became interested in the effects of light through his work as a time-lapse photographer, and the information he gathered in this profession resulted in the publication of several books on this important subject matter. One that should be on your 'must read as soon as possible' list is his book, Health and Light. Though chicken breeders and egg farm managers have known for many years that days lengthened with artificial lighting will cause the hens to lay more eggs, the importance of lighting has not been stressed sufficiently to bird breeders in particular and the avicultural community in general. The lighting you supply your birds will affect their disposition, their health, and their breeding. Your indoor lighting conditions may well spell the difference between success and failure in the maintenance and breeding of cage birds. All About Handfeeding Cockatiel Chicks
by Iris Brzezinski
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It is important to know why you are handfeeding and what you hope to accomplish through the handfeeding process. In this article we will look at the many factors that are needed to consider when choosing to hand feed. We will take a look at parent fed versus hand fed cockatiels. Is a rigid feeding schedule necessary or appropriate? Who should hand feed? Should I handfeed? Where do I find someone to teach me to handfeed? What do I need to learn to hand feed successfully? And when should you intervene if the parent birds are having problems?
Parent Fed Tiels
Cockatiels make great parents, not all of them, but most do. They keep their chick's crops stuffed with food. A parent fed chick is more bonded to the parents and are fearful of the humans in their life. Chicks that have been raised solely by their parents are imprinted on them and are more stand-offish than handfeds. These chicks should make excellent breeders in two years when they will be of a good age to begin raising their own families.
Parent fed cockatiel chicks gain weight quickly and are heavier than their handfed counterparts. The parents are able to feed fresh food every time they go to feed their chicks. Parent fed tiel chicks have huge crops that are stuffed to capacity with large amounts of fresh food. This is not something the handfeeder can imitate. Any time you add water to the formula you increase the amount of bacteria present in the formula. The parents are able to supply their chicks with the bacteria needed for digestion, enzymes, and the immunities that they carry.
If you wish to allow the parents to feed, but also wish to have them tame and imprinted on humans, you will need to have a socialization program. Socializing means getting the chicks out of the nestbox for short periods of time to be cuddled, played with, talked too, and to spend quality time with their human companions. This can be started as early as ten days old.
Hand-fed Tiels
Handfed Cockatiels make better pets. The reason is that they have become imprinted on humans at a very young age. I pull chicks at ten days of age. Their eyes have just opened and after two or three feedings they already recognize me as the mommy bird who gives them food. Once pulled, the chicks are housed in a brooder.
Pulling chicks this young intensifies the feeding schedule because they need to eat often. Normally I feed every three hours from 6am till midnight. Not feeding the chick often enough is a mistake made by many who are new to handfeeding. Inadequate feeding leads to malnourished chicks that are stunted. The chicks may survive this compromised feeding schedule, however they won't thrive under such conditions. The goal in handfeeding must be to raise fat, healthy, happy chicks that are well socialized and a joy to their human companions. To do it well, takes time.
Food quality is equally as important. Great care must be given so that the diet meets the nutritional needs of the chicks. Using a high quality handfeeding formula is important to the success of raising healthy cockatiel chicks. Equally important is feeding enough formula for the chicks' needs on a daily basis. Handfeeding needs to be based on the chicks' needs. When the chick is hungry, feed it. Make decisions and choices based on the needs of the chicks, not the dictates of a rigid schedule.
As you can see, handfeeding baby cockatiels is a huge undertaking which takes your time, your energy, and your commitment to see it through until the chicks are weaned and ready for a loving home with their new human companions.
When pulling the chicks be aware that the parent birds are going to be distressed by the taking of their chicks. Normally this lasts about twenty-four hours. If it is the pair's first clutch, they may immediately go to nest again and double clutch.
Who Should Hand Feed?
Hand Feeding is a difficult task which should only be attempted by those who are experienced in handfeeding. There is a huge learning curve to be able to do it properly. Someone who wishes to hand feed should contact an experienced breeder who can teach them how to go about hand feeding. A good mentor is a real asset which can help you deal with problems before they become critical. There are very subtle indications that things are not going well. Often the novice handfeeder will miss these due to a lack of experience.
Sometimes you are forced into handfeeding because of problems with the parent birds. These include aggression by the male in which he may try to kill the chicks, parents who consistently refuse to feed the chicks, or parents who are biting wings and feet. Sometimes a parent bird will nip at a wing because it is not receiving the feeding response that the parent needs to be able to feed the chick. Aggression is not unusual in males who are jealous of their chicks and see them as a threat. In any event, a chick that is bleeding is in need of immediate removal from the nestbox and appropriate medical care. There is always the danger that any wound may become infected and must be dealt with quickly.
Preparing to Handfeed
Cockatiel Incubation takes 18-21 days. This is a good time to get the necessary supplies in for handfeeding so that you are ready when the chicks begin to hatch.
You will want to buy a good quality handfeeding formula to feed your chicks. Homemade recipes often fail to meet the minimum nutritional requirements for feeding cockatiel chicks. Commercial foods are carefully formulated to avoid nutritional deficiencies, preventing other serious complications such as weak bones, splayed legs, rickets, and stunted or retarded growth. These formulas help to produce healthy chicks that are not stunted or suffering from failure to thrive syndrome.
Next you must decide whether you are going to feed with a spoon that is bent, or a handfeeding syringe, or crop needle or tube feed the chicks. I prefer handfeeding with a syringe and keep a supply of syringes that are 1cc, 3cc, 5cc, and 10cc to use with the chicks.
Tube feeding is unnecessary unless the chick is sick. Using a tube bypasses the chick's ability to taste and appreciate the food. The chick doesn't learn how to eat and the pleasure of eating is lost to the chick.
However, you will want to have a crop needle and a feeding tube available in case of an emergency. Sometimes the only way to get food to a very sick chick is by feeding tube. It is important that the tube is the right size for the tiel chick. This you can get from your avian veterinarian. Make sure that your avian vet teaches you how to use the feeding tube correctly and that you understand all of the instructions given you by the vet. If you have not been taught how to use one, please do not use a feeding tube. There is danger of aspirating the chick or of puncturing the esophagus or the crop if you do not know how. It is not worth the risk. Consult your avian veterinarian.
A good disinfectant is necessary when undertaking handfeeding. Dirty bowls, syringes, and surfaces will cause sick chicks because of the bacteria that is present. An anti-bacterial for your hands is highly recommended. I prefer the ones that dry on my hands, so that I can scoop the chick up as soon as my hands are dry.
When handfeeding, an absolute must that you can't be without is a thermometer. The food temperature should be checked every time you go to feed the chick. Cockatiel chicks seem to do quite well when the temperature is 105-107 degrees Fahrenheit. I do not recommend feeding formula at under 104 degrees Fahrenheit, as cooler temperatures cause problems with digestion. If the food is fed too hot, there is the possibility of severely burning the crop. Food that is fed cold usually results in a chick with sour crop.
A gram scale is an absolute must for anyone serious about handfeeding their chicks. This piece of equipment is vital to any handfeeder who wants to have plump healthy chicks. Weight loss of even one gram is so important that it may be the only sign that you ever get that the chick is in trouble.
Chicks should be weighed every morning and records kept which include the weight and the amount of food fed to the chick at each feeding. Summarizing the report at the end of the day needs to include the total number of grams fed and how much weight the chick has gained.
A brooder is needed to house the chicks once they have been pulled from the parents. Another article will explain in detail how to set up a baby brooder and what temperatures are best for the different age group of chicks. Chicks that have no feathers will need more heat than a fully feathered out chick.
Also you will want to have on hand a supply of small bowls, spoons, and cloths for cleaning the chicks after eating. Blackstrap Molasses, Baking Soda, Pedialyte, and a good Probiotic such as Prozyme or Bene-bac would be good to have readily available in case the chick should suffer from any digestive upsets.
The Crop
The crop has one function - food storage. Without it birds would have to eat constantly because of their high metabolism. The crop is involved in moving food into the digestive tract. One of the signs that the crop is actively working is that the muscles can be seen as they contract. The muscles contract as they push the food stored in the crop into the stomach. It is very important to understand and monitor the chick's crop and to be sure that it is emptying properly. It is a sign of health or problems with the chick.
Handfeeding
There is much to know about the actual handfeeding process. How to hold the chick, the begging response, how often to feed and how much as the chick grows, how to judge a full or empty crop, using a brooder, monitoring the chick and much more. The next article will go into the details. However, an overview is presented here.
You want to pull your chicks for handfeeding, however you aren't sure when would be the best time. Normally I pull my own chicks at ten days old. When pulling chicks, I already have the baby brooder set up, warm, and waiting to receive the chicks from the nest.
The very best time to pull chicks is between two and three weeks of age, especially if you are very new to handfeeding. In order to thrive, chicks need to be fed when their crops are empty. Delaying feeding for too long a period may cause problems with the chick's liver. The crop must empty completely once in every twenty-four hour period. The hours between midnight and 6am are a good time to allow this too happen. A chick with food still in its crop after the six hour fast needs to be treated for slow or sour crop. Taking a look at the husbandry practices may help to find the cause of the problem. Formula or environmental temperatures that are too cold will cause the crop to slow down. A chilled or cold chick will experience problems with slow crop.
As chicks grow, they can take more food at each feeding. Cockatiel parents feed the chicks an abundant amount of food and keep the crops stuffed. They will have stretched the crop sufficiently at three weeks of age, making it easier for you to feed the chicks. An older chick will do better with a thicker formula. At the start the formula is the consistency of a creamed soup as you get to the fifth week the formula is the consistency of a soft yogurt. Beyond the sixth week the formula is the consistency of cake batter.
Over time, the number of feedings per day will decrease, while the thickness of the formula increases. This assures that the chick is receiving adequate nutrition as it grows and needs more volume and a greater percentage of solids in the diet.
Hand fed tiel chicks grow quickly. You will find that they have grown from one feeding to the next. It is an awesome experience to watch the tiny blind and naked chick grow into a beautiful handsome tiel who is still a baby at ten weeks old. Growth rates will vary amongst the chicks and is dependent on the genetics of the parents. Some tiels have tiny bone structures and are not as heavy as other tiels of their same age.
I have taken the averages of my cockatiel chicks' weights starting at 7 days. This is a general guideline not a strict chart from which you can't deviate. Please remember that these weights are based on my own chicks and taken from my personal records. They are not etched in stone. My tiels are on the large size. For those with smaller parents, the weights of the chicks vary with the genetic history of the parents, depending on the breeder, whether the cockatiel is pet quality or show quality, or the overall health of the parents and chicks.
Tiel Weights
7 days - 37 grams
14 days - 50-65 grams
21 days - 70-84 grams
28 days - 85-99 grams
35 days - 92-110 grams
42 days - 90-105 grams
49 days - 88-100 grams
56 days - 95-120 grams (weaning weights)
Keeping good records will help you to identify any problems you may be having with the chicks. Most of my chicks fledge at three weeks of age. This means that they are already doing solo flights at 21 days of age. It is not unusual for chicks to lose some weight before their first flight. They will cut back on the amount of food they are eating in order to slim down for flying. This is instinctive with chicks who want to lose some of the baby fat so that they will be more aero-dynamic.
Many inexperienced handfeeders are fooled at this time thinking that the chick is weaning. I've found that the chicks' appetites return around the sixth week when they begin to eat again. As a handfeeder it is important that you maintain the nutrition that is needed by the chick. This may mean with the fledging diet that you must feed less volume more often. I like my chicks to receive 20-30cc/ml of food each day. At this time I feed 5cc at each feeding and try to feed 4-5 times in a day depending upon the needs of the chick.
Handfeeding from Day One
Handfeeding day one chicks is more complicated due to the small size of the chick. There is more danger of aspirating a chick that is so small. Aspiration means that the food goes into the chick's lungs rather than into the crop. When this happens the chick dies.
Another problem encountered with day one chicks is that we are unable to provide the same bacteria, immunities, and enzymes that the parent birds give their chicks. Chicks are born with sterile guts and need good bacteria to colonize the digestive tract. Bacteria is important for digestion. Without it, the chick is unable to properly digest the formula given to him. Even more important is that the handfeeder provide good gram positive bacteria to colonize the chick's gut. Cockatiel chicks at hatch have a non functional immune system. The immune system remains immature until the tiel chick is three months old. The gram positive bacteria helps to fight off gram negative bacteria which would make the chick sick.
When handfeeding day one chicks you need to feed every one and a half to two hours around a twenty-four hour clock. It is important to feed as soon as the crop is empty. Since chicks may have crops that empty quickly, this is a very exhausting to the handfeeder. When undertaking feeding day one chicks its a good idea to have help. This allows for both to have a couple hours of sleep each day.
It's recommended to handfeed day ones around the clock until they are five to seven days old or have gained enough weight to go longer without being handfed. This depends on the capacity of the crop to hold more food and if the handfeeder has slowly stretched the crop to increase the amount of food the crop will hold. It is not recommended that novices attempt to handfeed day one chicks because of the many problems that can be encountered. Overstretching the crop is a major problem and if the crop is filled beyond its normal capacity can result in a loss of muscle tone. Obviously handfeeding day ones is best left to the professional breeder who has the handfeeding experience necessary to do the job with a successful outcome.
Problems which may occur during handfeeding
One sign of trouble when handfeeding is that the chicks appear not to gain any weight. This can be due to a malabsorption problem, stunting, or failure to thrive. Many times a factor which is part of the trouble is that the chick is mildly to severely dehydrated. Fluids given by your avian veterinarian may make the difference in life or death for the chick. Sometimes the problems are so serious there is nothing that can be done to help a chick that is hatched with liver and kidney syndrome. Often the only indication that this is a problem is that the crop stops emptying.
Another sign of trouble is splayed legs in the chicks. This is when the leg juts out from the hip. There is thought to be multiple causes for this problem, one being a hen that is sitting too tight on her chicks. Another that the bedding in the nestbox is too slippery and doesn't give the chick the firm footing needed to keep his legs under him. A calcium deficiency is thought to play a role in the development of splayed legs. It is important to remember that the embryo receives calcium from the egg shell while it is developing inside. Feeding the hen a calcium rich diet not only helps keep her healthy but also assures that the chick will have the calcium he needs as a developing embryo.
Other problems associated with handfeeding will be included in the next article.
When do tiel chicks wean?
One thing that any parent wants for their young is to see them independent and thriving in their lives. Tiel chicks are born dependent on their parents for every need. As handfeeders we worry about when the chick will wean. And are afraid that we will have the only tiel chick who remains wanting to be handfed at five years of age. Please believe when I say this - cockatiel chicks are the most stubbornly independent of any species of parrot. When they are completely weaned it is not likely that you will never be able to get a syringe back into their beaks.
So what are the signs that the chick is weaning. One sign is that they are begging less to be fed and eating more of the diet that is being put in front of them on a daily basis. Another is although they beg, whine, and cry to be handfed, when the syringe is placed in their mouth they take 1-2cc and go off to play. It is quite normal for a chick to lose some weight at weaning. A weight loss of more than ten percent is not normal and the chick should be evaluated by an avian veterinarian.
Weaning is a process. Each chick is a unique individual and no one can say that this chick will wean at this time. It is more important that weaning not be forced, but the chick be allowed to tell you when it is ready to be independent. Independent eating can be recognized by the chick's ability to eat enough food to maintain his body weight from day to day. I recommend enjoying the time spent handfeeding and weaning the chick. You will find that they grow up quickly and become independent intelligent winged creatures sooner than you expected or wanted. Hopefully you will have raised healthy happy cockatiels and you have received much satisfaction in the experience of raising your chicks.
In the next articles we will cover the handfeeding process in more detail, such problems as slow crop, sour crop, crop stasis, crop burn, aspiration, bacterial and fungal infections, and dietary inadequacies and deficiencies caused by an improper diet, setting up and using brooders and other handfeeding issues. I hope that this article will help you in making the decision whether to allow your chicks to be parent raised or hand fed. An informed and educated decision is one that needs to be made in the best interests of your birds.
Winged Wisdom Note: Iris, Bob, and their three children live in Maryland. They are owned by 19 birds. The flock consists of a bare eyed cockatoo, a Congo African grey, a quaker, a senegal, a green rump parrotlet, a lori and 12 cockatiels.
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Copyright © 2001 Iris Brzezinski and Winged Wisdom. All rights reserved.
Email: ilbrzez@msn. com |
